it’s easy to be negative and bitchy, and it’s very hard to be analytically precise with straightforward speech that bites to the core of the dysfunction.

you bit so deeply into the core that there’s a seed on your tooth.

our sport is driven by the pimps and hustlers. it’s another sad tale of american capitalistic excess run amok, but this time it’s our love- our soulful pastime that has been whored out. not the first time, not the last, and unfortunately one more in a line of many, but each one of us who really measures himself as a surfer should look at their role.

when you buy in, you sell out.

great piece, by the way. thanks again.